Interviews
Cosmetics: Not designed for the Muslims?
By The Halal Journal
Aug 3, 2006, 11:44

While various environmental, natural and organic groups continue their pressure for a more regulated and ethical cosmetics and personal care industry, it is interesting to note that Muslims are actually leaving their fate to the hands of these lobbyists.

The Halal Journal recently chatted with a pharmaceutical chemist and founder of Saaf Natural Cosmeceuticals, Dr. Mah Hussain-Gambles on why Muslims should actually fight their own cause for Halal cosmetics.

What are the prevailing scenarios out there in the market currently, in terms of the Halalness of the cosmetics and personal care industry?

"I set up Saaf almost three years ago, as I was concerned as to whether the cosmetics/toiletries I was using on my family and myself were indeed Halal. It turns out that I am not on my own with these concerns. I have had a lot of interest in Saaf, not only in the UK, but also from all over the world. I frequently get emails from people asking my advice about well known brands on the market and as to whether they are Halal or not. So I definitely see a growing trend and increasing consumer awareness about Halal toiletries and it is definitely gathering momentum. I have recently been approached by a couple of UK based companies, asking me to develop a Halal certified skincare range on their behalf. This is significant as it means that the industry has suddenly realised the buying power of the Halal market. With an estimated 2 million Muslims living in the UK it is imperative that, in order to reach these household shoppers of the future, suppliers look now at investing in Halal product development and targeting this group with promotions. This will foster brand awareness and store loyalty, and establish the shopping patterns of the future."

Some sectors say most of the imported cosmetic products out there in the market are using non-Halal ingredients, mostly swine-based, as it is the most effective. How true is this statement?

"I'm afraid that swine based and synthetic chemicals are used for entirely mercenary reasons. The simple fact is that they are cheaper than organic and natural alternatives. However, you have to remember that there is a growing trend in the West towards Vegetarian and Vegan skincare, not to mention the emphasis being placed on developing organic skincare products. You can't make assumptions about all imported products but I have come across well known brands which use, for example, elastine and other ingredients in anti wrinkle creams (please take a look at our website www.saaf.co.uk, for information on hidden animal ingredients in skincare products), and sometimes, even for me, as a chemist it is difficult to know the origin of these ingredients. To be safe, it is better to buy from ethical companies, who care more about their ingredients than about making millions using cheap synthetic and swine derived ingredients. Better still, see if the product is Vegetarian Society approved, since I know from experience that they are VERY strict and do not allow any animal ingredients or derivatives."

As an industry expert, what should the Muslim consumers look out for on the ingredients label when they shop for cosmetics, toiletries or personal care products?

"I sympathise with the Muslim consumer since it is very difficult to ascertain Halal status of the product by simply looking at the INCI (chemical names) on the ingredient list. But also remember, Halal is not just about a product being animal free and alcohol free. For me personally, it means a lot more. I would suggest looking for endorsements from well established and accredited organisations such as Vegetarian or Vegan Society, since they have very strict criteria and do not allow any animal ingredient in their endorsed products. Alcohol free is a difficult one as certain hard waxes have an INCI name of Cetyl Alcohol or Phenoxy Ethanol for instance, but they are clearly non-intoxicating. I frequently advice Halal Authorities and my clients about this, so I am afraid there is no definite answer to this one, unless you are a chemist that is! And there is always the manufacturing process to consider, frequently alcoholic cleaning agents are used during the manufacturing process and if Haram products are made in the same factory, then there is undoubtedly the issue of cross contamination."

With regard to the use of placenta as an ingredient, is this still rampant and are there any suitable ingredients to replace this?

"Certain products contain placenta due to its reported anti-ageing properties. There are natural alternatives available such Rosehip Seed Oil (high in natural Vitamins A and C) and certain essential oils (go for steam distilled ones since most are extracted using alcohol) and we are currently developing products with Organic Pomegranate Seed Oil, with exceptional skin rejuvenating properties.
With regards to swine placenta, I wouldn't be surprised if it is still used in some commercial brands, from parts of the world that have little to no regulatory process. I would advise your readers to always try to buy their cosmetics from the EU, which has very strict legislations and by law the manufacturer has to indicate all ingredients on the label. If the product doesn't provide an ingredient list, then the concerned consumer has to air on the side of caution."

What is the active ingredient in most anti-ageing creams or lotions? Is this considered Halal from the perspective of Shariah?

"To be frank with you, a simple natural oil based moisturiser is just as effective (if not more effective) than certain very expensive creams currently on the market, some of which contain 80% water and very little else. (Please take a look at our website for 'Cosmetic Myth' which provides my personal views on moisturisers). Active ingredients can vary, depending on the marketeers' latest jargon. Personally, I would not purchase anything for either my family or myself, where the INCI (chemical names) are a concoction of pseudo terms that have been adopted just to draw the consumer into the latest 'miracle cure'."

Any other thoughts and insights you want to share with the readers?

"Just because a product claims to be free from animal and alcohol ingredient, doesn't mean it complies with Shariah Law. Halal should be about more of a holistic approach rather than just swine/alcohol free. Halal products need to be of the purest, cleanest and finest quality. This is the main reason that Saaf uses organic, high quality and food grade ingredients, which makes it suitable for sensitive skins. Then, as I have previously mentioned, there is the manufacturing site to consider. There is no point in using 'Halal' ingredients but manufacturing the product somewhere with poor hygiene and bad manufacturing practices. The site needs to be audited by an independent specialist to check that there is no possibility of cross contamination and that Halal sanitizers are used during the cleaning process. If any of your readers want to know where to get halal certified sanitizers or how to go about getting a certification, then please email me: info@saaf.co.uk".


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