The Problem with Cosmetics’ Ingredients

Traditionally, internationally known brand names earn the easy trust of a consumer for its familiarity. The idea of a conglomerate-run product on the shelf suggests that it has met numerous quality and safety requirements, especially if it is from a western, developed country.

The situation is more deceptive for cosmetics, because one can easily believe that not anything that is externally functional can cause any significant harm. One applies it on the skin, and regularly washes it off. The objective of cosmetics rarely transcends aesthetics. In any case, no one hopes to be healthier from the use of cosmetics.

Unfortunately, the above assumptions can be dangerous if taken for granted. In truth, take the United States (US) for example, its cosmetic products rarely communicate with their national Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The common understanding is that FDA would determine whether a product is safe or not, but the complex nature of cosmetic chemicals means that any substance, harmful or not, can be hidden in some clever cataloguing.

The FDA can only identify ingredients by name, and for substances that are more ‘exotic’, the FDA usually refers to the producers themselves. The FDA would seek sources such as the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association that may have their own personal objectives.

The FDA has no way of determining the clinical safety of every substance in the myriad of products that reach the market. Take for example, the harmless instance of vitamins mentioned in products. The FDA cannot determine if vitamins actually transfer its ‘goodness’ into the skin.

Whilst producers such as Neutrogena are happy to admit that the immediate effects of vitamins (advertised as Vitamin C, B and so on) on skin remain mysterious, other large labels refuse to acknowledge this, going so far as to say that these added vitamins will improve conditions. Even if a determination were made, it would enter into a procedural quandary. Vitamin-based ‘cosmetics’ that supposedly improve health now fall under the definition of ‘drug’ and it would open a new can of worms.

How does this affect the Halal-conscious consumer? The health regulations surrounding cosmetics provide similar concerns, if not identical. The US FDA was responsive to general outrage when use of human placenta in cosmetics was first discovered. However, after careful re-branding following numerous reports from independent observers, by calling human placenta ‘protein’, it was approved again by the FDA.

One should have the above processes in mind when looking at cosmetic ingredients of any biological nature, including commonly known substances such as collagen from young cows, and cerebrosides – a fatty substance that can be extracted from both animals and plants.

What many Muslim women have done prior to new insistence for institutionalised Halal standards is to be conscious of such biological substances. One can be rest-assured that until Halal concerns encompass the whole world and at all levels of purchase, from expensive to poor, the Muslim consumer will have to simply reject animal-based products without further scrutiny.

The chances of products coming from properly slaughtered animals, or from animals that Islam would deem unnecessary for slaughtering, remain subjective to creative catalouging. The challenge comes from deciphering the scientific jargon cosmetic producers use to hide health risks. It has become an independent effort, as it remains, for most of the world’s consumers throughout the world for the more discerning consumer.

With Malaysia’s determination to set the standard for Halal products according to Islamic principles, one can expect new efforts by the Department of Islamic Development Malaysia (JAKIM) to bring the credibility of the Halal logo for cosmetics as well. However, what will it spell for international products?

Whilst it may be easier to determine the Halal nature of cosmetic products made in Malaysia, it may be harder to infiltrate Muslim standards outside our national scope. With some products careless of their own local standards, and FDA approval so ubiquitous, can the Malaysian cosmetic market enjoy variety, international standards and Halal-assured products?

JAKIM will have to work closely with Malaysia’s local FDA but it does not reveal the future for international products in Malaysia. The Halal Hub envisioned for Malaysia needs to strike the delicate balance of meeting the needs of Muslims whilst at the same time attract international appeal and not run the risk of suggesting Halal efforts as an insular market.

The current Halal market is highly dependent on a concentrated area: The Middle East. Despite the narrow market, its total value is at an impressive USD2 billion, and may be the driving force needed to make Halal a global international brand, but this remains a possibility.

Whilst it is easy to look at green alternatives such as The Body Shop and other producers that run green policies, many are not available in Malaysia and many are charged at a high price. It will be interesting to see how JAKIM hopes to embark on the adventurous undertaking of securing Halal in cosmetics whilst at the same time provides customer satisfaction.

Of course, to provide any securely Halal option is an achievement in itself. Halal, is after all, to provide a peace-of-mind to the Ummah. It remains imperative, however, that the vision of providing the Halal label to cosmetics be from JAKIM’s approval. It will require a strict revision of FDA practices, the study of imports, and a close understanding of current trends in the beauty industry.

New challenges that may face the Fatwa Committee of Malaysia may be how they wish to catalogue Halal cosmetics, especially cosmetics that may contain complex substances of alcohol. In 1984, it was established that whilst liquor contains alcohol, it does not follow that alcohol derived from non-liquor sources are equally non-Halal. Alcohol in different forms may be Haram for its generally harmful properties, not because it is perceived as the filth a Muslim must assume with liquor.

As far as Malaysia is concerned, alcohol in perfume is permissible. How this would be deduced for several cosmetic products to be deemed either Halal or non-Halal will be an interesting precedent to observe. For now, until there are credible international standards for cosmetics, many young Muslim men and women have gone for the strictest and safest option: vegan products. This is possibly the most effective precaution for modern Muslims until Malaysia steps in.

Hidden Ingredients in Your Cosmetics

Source: www.saaf.co.uk

There are thousands of technical and patented names for cosmetic ingredients, and many ingredients, which are known by one name, can be of animal, vegetable, or synthetic origin. “Natural Sources” can also mean animal or vegetable sources, and most often in the cosmetics industry, it means animal sources, such as animal elastin, glands, fat, protein, and oil.

The following information will provide the reader with a basic knowledge of the most common animal-derived ingredients. Other good sources of additional information are the Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients and the Consumer’s Dictionary of Food Additives. All of these are available at most libraries.

Albumen: Usually derived from egg whites and used as a coagulating agent, frequently used in cosmetic industry.

Allantoin: May be derived from uric acid from cows or other mammals, and is used in treatment of wounds and ulcers, and in cosmetics (especially creams and lotions).

Ambergris: Obtained from whale intestines and used as a fixative in making perfumes. Also used as flavouring in foods and beverages.

Amino Acids: The building blocks of protein in all animals and plants, and are used in some cosmetics, vitamins, supplements, shampoos, and so on.

Arachidonic Acid: A liquid unsaturated fatty acid that is found in the liver, brain, glands, and fat of animals and humans. It is generally isolated from animal liver, and is used in some skin creams and lotions to sooth eczema and rashes.

Cholesterol: A steroid alcohol in all animal fats and oils, nervous tissue, egg yolk, and blood, it can be derived from lanolin. It is sometimes used in cosmetics, eye creams, shampoos, and so on.

Collagen: A protein that is usually derived from animal tissue.

Colours/Dyes: Pigments from animal, plant, and synthetic sources used to colour foods, cosmetics, and other products. Cochineal is obtained from insects, whereas colours are coal tar (bituminous coal) derivatives that are continuously tested on animals due to their carcinogenic properties.

Cystine: A sulphur-containing amino acid found in high-keratin sources such as animal and human hair, animal skeletal and connective tissues, and hooves. Can also be found in digestive enzymes. It is used as a nutritional supplement, in emollients, hair treatment and anti-ageing skincare products, bread/dough processing, and food flavouring.

Elastin: Protein found in the neck ligament and aorta of cows, and is similar to collagen.

Gelatine: Protein obtained by boiling skin, tendons, ligaments, and/or bones in water, mostly derived from cows and pigs. It is used in shampoos, facemasks, and other cosmetics. Also widely used in the food and beverage sector.

Glycerine: A by-product of soap manufactures (normally using animal fat). It is used in cosmetics, foods, mouthwashes, chewing gum, toothpastes, soaps, ointments, and medicines.

Hyaluronic Acid: A protein found in umbilical cords and the fluids around the joints. It is used to produce oil in cosmetic.

Hydrolysed Animal Protein: Commonly used in cosmetics, especially in shampoo and for hair treatments.

Keratin: Protein from the ground-up horns, hooves, feathers, quills, and hair of various animals. Typically used in hair rinses, shampoos, and permanent wave solutions.

Lactic Acid: Found in blood and muscle tissue. Also in sour milk, beer, sauerkraut, pickles, and other food products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in skin fresheners, and as a preservative, in the formation of plasticisers, and the likes.

Lanolin: A product of the oil glands of sheep, extracted from their wool. Used as an emollient in many skin care products and cosmetics, and in medicines.

Lard: Fat from hog abdomens, used in shaving creams, soaps, and cosmetics.

Lecithin: Waxy substance found in nervous tissue of all living organisms. It is frequently obtained from eggs and soybeans for commercial purposes. Lecithin can be found in eye creams, lipsticks, liquid powders, hand creams, lotions, soaps, shampoos, other cosmetics, and some medicines.

Lipids: Fat and fat-like substances that are found in animals and plants.

Myristic Acid: A type of acid found in most animal and vegetable fats. Used in shampoos, creams, cosmetics, and so on.

Oleic Acid: Obtained from various animal and vegetable fats, and oils, but is usually obtained commercially from inedible tallow. Found in some soft soaps, bar soap, permanent wave solutions, creams, nail polish, lipsticks, many other skin preparations.

Progesterone: A steroid hormone used in some anti-wrinkle face creams.

Propolis: Tree sap gathered by bees that is used as a sealant in beehives. Used in toothpaste, shampoo, deodorant, supplements, and so on.

Royal Jelly: Secretion from the throat glands of the worker honeybees that is fed to the larvae in a colony and to all queen larvae.

Shellac: The resinous excretion of certain insects, commercially used as candy glaze, hair lacquer, and on jewellery.

Silk Powder: Obtained from the secretion of silkworms; it is used as a colouring agent in face powders, soaps, and so on. May cause severe allergic skin reactions and systemic reactions (if inhaled or ingested).

Stearic Acid: Fat obtained from cows and sheep. Most often refers to a fatty substance taken from the stomachs of pigs. Used in cosmetics, soaps, lubricants, candles, hairspray, conditioners, deodorants, creams, chewing gum, and food flavouring, but may be harsh and irritating to the skin.

Stearyl Alcohol: Is a mixture of solid alcohols that can be prepared from whale sperm oil. Used in medicines, creams, rinses, shampoos, and so on.

Tallow: Rendered beef fat, mostly used in candles, soaps, lipsticks, shaving creams, and other cosmetics. Chemicals (e.g. PCB) can be in animal tallow. May cause eczema and blackheads.

Vitamin A: Found in fish liver oil (e.g., shark/cod liver oil), egg yolk, wheat germ oil, carotene in carrots, and synthetics. Frequently used in cosmetics, creams, perfumes, hair dyes, and so on.